19th to 29th September 2023
The last blog I posted left us at the summit of the Canal de Borgogne, enjoying a rest at Pouilly-en-Auxois after a quite hectic climb up the Yonne side of this marvellous canal.
And after three days enjoying the sunsets, the convenience of a supermarket near-by and general relaxation we were ready to make the descent down to Saint Usage and our winter mooring.
We also had some interesting things to do – a tunnel to go through; the famous medieval hilltop village of Chateauneuf to explore; and our son arriving in 6 days time to see Dijon with us.
We had agreed with the éclusiers (lock keepers) that we would leave at 9.15 on the 19th September – you need to ‘book’ them for your start day and times.
This meant visiting their office and collecting the tunnel radio and a list of safety instructions. This included wearing our life jackets ✅, having two oars or barge poles available ✅, on-board navigational lighting ✅ and a fire extinguisher ✅.
The other two essentials were a) a cup of hot tea, because gas must be turned off as you go through the tunnel, and b) a timing device, because you must radio in your position every five minutes as you go through; two more ticks ✅✅.
The approach to the tunnel is through a pretty tree lined cutting that leads directly out of Pouilley basin towards the little town of Pouilley-en-Auxois.
The approach is so nice that I had a go at capturing it on video – although I was disturbed by a radio call from the éclusiers just as we were about to enter. If you are interested it is included here – about 2 minutes long. You can observe Captain Stu’s straight as an arrow steering.
The tunnel is 3.3 kms long and 5.8m wide. It has no path alongside the water, and no lights, but with Calliope’s steaming light this is not a problem.
The ‘turquoise’ light in the photo is from the green starboard navigation light; the light ahead is from the steaming light on the mast.
You cannot see it here, but every 100m there is a marker telling you how far through the tunnel you are; this is what musty be reported to the éclusier, by radio, every five minutes.
But what you can see are the old electric ‘tram’ wires alone the roof of the tunnel that powered the electric tow craft that pulled barges through in the past.
And you can just see the light at the end of the tunnel. We were about a quarter if the way in at that point, but at least we could see where we were heading.
In less that 45 minutes Calliope was out the other side into the sunshine of another cutting.
This cutting led us into another basin – Escommes – where, in days long gone, working barges would wait their turn to go through the tunnel. It is possible to moor at this tranquil spot but we had decided to go another couple of kilometres, and down 8 locks, to Vandenesse-en-Auxois.
Initially it seemed that our plan had not been conveyed from the Yonne side éclusier team to the Saône side team, as no-one was there to meet us. However a phone call soon put that right.
Another friendly team arrived and although it meant working through their lunch break they said they would get us down to Vandenesse as quickly as they could.
It is easy to forget how much quicker it is to go down a series of locks than it is to go up!
Everything is easier; we arrive at the same level as the bollards, making tying up simple, and water can be let out of a lock faster than into a lock – the boat is not in danger of being tossed around on a surge of incoming water.
The canal was looking absolutely beautiful this side.
And it was a joy to see an almost normal depth of water from side to side! The canal up from the Yonne was painfully short of water; we were the last boat allowed through to the top.
There are 8 locks to go down from the Escommes basin to Vandenesse, all quite close together, but not all the same.
Écluse number 4S*, de Grand Pré, is particularly interesting with its grand array of historical tools and agricultural accessories! With more time not would be a good idea to moor up and have a good investigation!
- The letter S after the lock number means it is lock number 4 on the Saône side of the summit. On the way up the other side from the river Yonne each lock has a Y after the number.
A couple of skyline views came into sight.
First was the usual view of a bollard against the blue, with the white marker for those trying to lasso the bollard from below.
The second was more impressive, and something we were looking forward to.
As we came into écluse 8 we could see ahead of us, atop the hill, the outline of Chateauneuf – our target for the next day (on foot, not by boat!!).
Vandenesse-en-Auxois
Now all we needed to do was choose a mooring in the big basin below the lock and gather up our energy for the hill climb walk tomorrow.
Having initially checked in to the long port side quay we realised that there was a chance of a hotel barge arriving there, so we moved over to the nice shady spot on the right.
We did allow ourselves a walk around the village, on both sides of the canal. There are a few nice houses and other buildings, but I am saving my photo show for Chateauneuf.
That was us, happily ensconced in Vandenesse-en-Auxois for the night, and now on our way down towards the river Saône.
The day of our walk arrived in sunshine, and with that touch of autumn mist rising from the canal that makes everything even more heavenly.
Breakfast was eaten and the trek began.
To be honest it’s not far to walk from Vandenesse to Chateauneuf. Google maps has it as 2.7 kms, 45 minutes, and a climb of 120m at the end. But we were both a bit weary from ascending to the summit over the past 10 days, and I was still slightly wary of the ankle I had broken a few months earlier. Makes us sound such crocks! But we are happy crocks, so that’s ok.
I will try to limit the photos of our day – it was such a fabulous amazing day and I want to convey the joy and fascination of it all. So here is a photo warning – scroll on quickly if you want to miss them!
It began with our walk up, starting along the canal bank, then crossing to the other side to follow a winding country lane steeply to the top of the hill that hosts Chateauneuf. We were pleased to find a shady seat for a rest before we entered this well preserved medieval village.
We had arrived!
And within the prescribed 45 minutes.
I will summarise our visit into three sections – the lavoir (laundry washing pool), the village, and the castle after which the village is named.
The lavoir is at the bottom of stone steps and in a sunny cobbled yard. The water is below a usable level these days, well below the sloping edging stones where village people would have knelt with their washing. At the back, in the arch, a stream gushes from the wall and comes under the cobbles to feed the lavoir.
Those who have read my blogs before will know that I have a love of lavoirs! But on to the village!
Of course this does not manage to convey the sense of history, the ancient character and atmosphere of Chateauneuf, but if it encourages you to go experience it for yourself, then job done. And you want to explore from your armchair, here is a link to a bit more.
And of course I must include the castle itself, which now encompasses castles old and new, built, changed and developed over the centuries.
When we visited it was undergoing some very sensitive maintenance, so parts were shrouded, or closed off.
Nonetheless we spent a good long time there!
Here is a selection, and a link to the website about the castle, as there is far more to it than I can explain here!
We loved the old well in the courtyard, and some of the painted walls. One of the most atmospheric areas was the chapel with a tableau of mourners around the body of Philip the Good (I think).
If I may indulge in just a few more photos from the castle it is of some of the wonderful windows.
I think they are worth including, especially with their vista views and coloured glass.
I suspect you have had enough of ancient castles and villages by now, so just to say we had a good lunch there in the village, with refreshing cider to wash it down .
and then time to consider the walk back down to Calliope …..
…… who can be seen way down below on the canal, next to the blue splash of reflected light in the photo.
The walk down was certainly easier than the walk up, not just for the gradient, but also as it was a bit cooler. It led to a gently quiet evening on Calliope, and our second night in Vandenesse.
Morning brought cloud in the sky, and the threat of rain later. We were all in favour of rain, filling up the canals and reservoirs for future voyages! Calliope set off with the hilltop climb of the day before in view, and a quacking duck to say goodbye.
Today was a short travelling day to Pont d’Ouche; about 9 kms and 11 descending locks. so there would be plenty of contact with éclusiers for the next few hours of travel.
The journey was mainly rural, but just ahead of us at this lock was the big A5 main road that we would go under.
Éclusiers were working hard as always, so coffee and biscuits were handed round.
After a couple of hours we were down at Crugey, passing by the church, settled in well to its place next to the canal.
There were a few other things of interest to me as we slipped along. A beautiful moth joined us – I think it is a mint moth, but not certain. Please correct me if you know.
Then at a lock just past Crugey we suddenly had red bollards! Different people, either for fun or as their job, paint bollards in different colours and designs – one of the many things that gets you thinking “ooh, that’s different’.
And then, just on lunch time, we passed over the river Ouche, on a little aqueduct outside the village of Pont D’Ouche - where we were to stay the night.
This is actually a small tributary of the main Ouche, which mainly flows along on the left of the canal for some miles.
Pont d’Ouche
Within minutes of the aqueduct we were dropping down through the last lock of the day and mooring up to starboard in the shade of the trees.
We had been here before a few years ago, and I remembered the rather unstable wooden posts that we moored up to.
I am pleased to report that these have been replaced with firm metal bollards, which was just as well given the weather that was about to arrive.
An hour later the threatened storm blew in, with the wind howling and the rain pouring.
It rained most of the afternoon, but when it finally passed on the evening colours were magnificent.
Just look at those shades of green on the hills, and then reflected in the canal.
Every change in the weather brings something to life on the water!
Half an hour later the sun had almost disappeared astern of Calliope and we enjoyed the next palette of colours across the canal, to go with a relaxing evening glass of wine.
Next morning the sun rose forward of Calliope, and the final part of nature’s stormy art exhibition appeared – the mist rising from the surface, and the gleam of early rays from the cabin roof.
A nice accompaniment to breakfast before we were underway again.
On going outside we found other after effects of the storm! The ropes were all sodden, so we strung them up to drip and dry. The poor geraniums were drowning! The water was not only full in each pot, but also to the brim of the trough. Quite a bit of emptying to do before we left Pont d’Ouche.
As things gradually dried out it was becoming a beautiful day to get going again. We had a couple of days to reach Fleurey-sur-Ouche where we were picking up with our son Ashley.
The was ahead was blue and green with hills sloping down into the Ouche valley as we glided along.
We were still running along side l’Ouche, and would be for a couple of days.
Today’s main éclusier lived by the canal, lucky enough to have a lock keeper’s cottage; he loved to let the wild herbs run riot around his house.
By mid morning he had picked us mint, sage, oregano, and some chillis. They would be put to good culinary use.
At lunchtime, the usual one hour break, we were moored in the élcuse at Barbirey-sur-Ouche, next to someone’s tidy home – another ex-lock keeper cottage. It is possible to come to an arrangement with the VNF to have a long-term rental of these cottages at a very low cost, whilst contracting to do shared maintenance work and bring the more ruined houses back to life.
Gissey-sur-Ouche
About an hour after the lunch break we had reached Gissey-sur-Ouche – this photo is from the bridge, showing Calliope to the left and – unexpected delight – a lavoir to the right!
This is a very different lavoir to that at Chateauneuf, though serving the same purpose.
This lavoir has walls and a roof – not open to the elements as in Chateauneuf. A shelf runs along each side – maybe used for lanterns on dark days, or spare soap, or the bundled up shawls of the launderers, taken off while they were up to their elbows in cold water.
The spring feeding the lavoir can be seen outside, between the two doors; where it comes into the building there are two lions standing guard. I have discovered that the lavoir was built in 1846 according to the plans of the architect Auguste Sirodot, and had a major restoration in 2009. Perhaps it was originally paid for by the owner of the big house on the other side of the canal ….. who knows?
We crossed the old bridge over the Ouche to have a brief look at the little village of Gissey.
There is what looks like a good small restaurant on the main road and one or two characterful old buildings – plus the big house, hidden behind high walls!
We had just the one night at Gissey. Others have recommended the little basin upstream of the bridge, but no space there for us . We found this spot a totally agreeable mooring and a good spot for a few quiet days. If you choose to do this make sure you arrive with food supplies. The pizzeria/auberge in the village looks good, but no food shops for miles!
However three and a half kilometres further downstream, next to écluise 34, is a special restaurant. We had thought to moor up there for the night, instead of Gissey, but it seemed to be closed for the winter – or maybe because of the health of the restauranteur.
Seven years before on our travels in the other direction we had moored up near this restaurant for the night.
It being our first year retired we were feeling a bit broke and felt we couldn’t afford to eat there!
So I sat outside with the restaurant cat and had a sundowner drink instead.
And now in 2023, when we can afford to eat there, it is closed!
Never mind – it was a great day for cruising – not too hot as can be seen by me wearing a jumper at 1015 in the morning.
We were soon coming into Sainte-Marie-sur-Ouche and our éclusier was gesturing to me to come and look at the bridge we were about to pass under.
I was not entirely clear why he thought I should take a photo of the bridge, but thinking back maybe it is the only, or first, iron bridge over the canal. I’m fairly sure that most of the other bridges we had been going under were stone – so I include this one here in the hope that it is a special feature!
As we got further from the summit we again started to see evidence of a lack of water in the canal.
It was definitely much better than the Yonne side but ‘beached’ mooring posts like this suggested that more rain was needed.
Fleurey-sur-Ouche
By lunch time we had come into Fleurey, feeling very organised. Our son did not arrive until the next day so we had time to relax, explore, and shop before he got off his bus from Dijon.
Part of our plan was to use the long stone faced quay near the lock for our mooring. However when we arrived we found that a hotel barge was occupying that space. On their suggestion we tried mooring behind them, but lack of depth thwarted that idea.
So master helmsman Stu reversed about two hundred meters back up the canal to a space we had already spotted. Soon we were tied up and enjoying our midday meal.
After lunch and a siesta it was exploration time.
The town extends both sides of the canal and river – the Ouche was still running alongside us. So we crossed over both canal and river to see ‘the far side’.
The bridge dates back many centuries, being part of the old road from the Saône to the Seine. It fell into ruin due to wars, famine and epidemics, and was rebuilt in 1673 – the 7 arches continuing to stand.
A very interesting feature here is in the central photo. This wall with ‘windows’ is part of an old flood control system. By opening the windows flood water could flow through to the meadows behind, protecting the village. The after the flood, when cattle were grazing, the windows were closed to keep the animals in.
The third photo is the big lavoir next to the river – these days converted to an event venue for weddings and parties.
Fleurey has definitely been an important town in its day. There are many beautiful big doors, archways and gates into what have been large houses and estates – some still existing – and a few rather sweet small ones as well.
There is a lot of history in Fleurey; it dates back to Gallo-Roman times. There appears to be a local group investigating and writing up the history, but I regret my French is not good enough to understand it all.
Back on board we took a deep breath and relaxed into a sunny evening.
In the morning it was time to focus on the main reason for stopping in Fleurey for a couple of nights – to meet our son. He had Eurostarred to Paris and on to Dijon, then to catch a bus to Fleurey.
After a few days out in the country it was time to get provisions!
The main shopping centre, including an Intermarché supermarket, is at the top of town, so luckily all downhill when carrying the full bags!
By 5pm Ashley had arrived, hungry, and was installed on the back deck with wine and a tray of quickly assembled tapas!
He is a bit like us and likes to explore, try out local beers and bars etc. Stu was cooking that evening, but gave Ash and I leave to go ashore.
Only 100m from Calliope is a canal side bar. In addition to the expected wine and beer there were other friendly drinkers and a very fluffy pigeon, that lived in a dovecote behind the bar.
A couple of drinks on and it was time to go back for our dinner – and another superb sunset sky.
Before we leave Fleurey-sur-Ouche, two little touches of nature that I loved.
Spiders work their magic all year, but it is often in the spring and autumn sunlight, slanting in low, that the the beauty and delicacy of their webs is best seen.
And this Morning Glory bloom close to our mooring was just the best shade of floral blue you can get.
Ashley was with us for 4 nights, needing to be in Dijon for the last night in order to catch his early train back to UK. Our itinerary for the day was therefore a 9 kms and 8 lock trip to Plombiéres-les-Dijon, a small town outside the city. (Lès means near, so Plombières near Dijon)
By our usual (on this canal) start time of 9.15 we were arriving at écluse 42S de Fleurey with its pretty little lock house – no longer an éclusier’s home I feel.
The hotel barge had moved on earlier and we had a clear run to the lock gates under a clear sky.
Within 45 minutes we were already at our third lock – 44S de la Combe-de-Fain.
Having been on board a few times now Ashley is very handy crew – both with the ropes and at the helm.
(Nearby, though not in sight, is a double storey stone arched railway viaduct built in 1849 and still in use.)
I had earmarked the next lock for a short stop as there is a Colruyt supermarket next to it. We could buy bread and one or two extras for lunch. Ashley came with me to choose some French goodies to try. Good – when we later reached our lunch stop lock, interestingly called Crucifix, we had tasty food to eat.
Shortly after this we met a hotel barge coming upstream. It was quite a surprise. We had had the canal more or less to ourselves for days now. It’s normally a simple thing to pass one of these big barges, but a little more difficult with the lower than normal water. Both Captains took care and we glided past one another gently.
Now the topography began to change.
We were entering a steep sided section of the valley that takes the Ouche all the way down to Dijon.
And although hard to see there is a crucifix on top of that craggy outcrop, giving the next lock it’s name.
As so often we were left in the lock for our lunch while the éclusier nipped off home for his.
When it is very very hot we ask to be left at the bottom of the lock to keep cool, but on this perfect autumnal day we were happy to picnic at the top.
From this angle it looks like a quiet rural setting. It is rural, but not quiet. At this point the busy A38 runs alongside the canal! So with the A38 on one side and the Ouse on the other we continued on to our destination for the day.
Plombières-lès-Dijon
There is a good size basin at Plombières and plenty of good mooring space. We secured Calliope and went for a wander round the town – partly to let Ashley have a look (we have been there before) and partly to see if we could find somewhere to go out for supper.
Various tributaries of the Ouche run through Plombières. If you take the time to walk away from the main road that passes through the newer part of town and go down into the older streets you will find lots of picturesque corners. Here are a few, including the inevitable lavoir!
But we didn’t find anywhere to eat that evening, probably because it was a Monday, frequently a day that shops and restaurants close in France. Never mind – we have Dijon to come!
It’s just 5 kms into Dijon from Plombières. We set off at around 9am as usual in order to get plenty of time in the city.
There are only 5 locks to go through as well, so a gentle cruising day for all.
Even easy on the éclusier at this lock, 51S. You can just see him in the shade with automatic controls to operate the lock.
Dijon
In 2016 when we passed through Dijon we had heard that it could be a bit rough and noisy down by the canal. This put us off and we didn’t stop. Since then we had heard lots of good things about the area being tidied up and we planned to see for ourselves.
I am so glad that we did!
There is a small marina with finger pontoons for smaller craft and a lovely long quay with bournes for electricity and water for barges. If you don’t need these utilities it appears to be free to moor there, in pleasant park like surroundings.
Yes, you do get quite a lot of passers-by in the day time. People like to walk by a canal. But it was quiet at night and we would definitely return again – it’s such a nice city.
the journey from Plombières was so short that we arrived in time to moor up and look on line for a local restaurant with a menu du jour at a good price.
Within an hour we were enjoying a good meal nearby.
Then we were off for the first of several explorations around Dijon – some including food and drink and others not.
If you have visited Dijon you will know that I have not done justice to this city with these few photos; it gives just a little flavour of the place. I’ve started with the famous Maille Moutarde (mustard) shop – set up these days for the tourists, but an experience nonetheless. Then a couple of the many beautiful spires and churches, Les Halles, (indoor fresh produce market), an example of the busy side streets, and the beautiful Jardin Darcy.
But when you are with friends or family it is the social side of the visit that you remember most. The centre is thriving, with an abundance of bars and restaurants. We only had time over our two days to try a few!
But I think you can tell that we had fun!
With Ashley leaving us at about 0630 on the last morning we decided that we might as well continue down towards our hivernage (winter mooring) at the bottom of the canal. It is possible to get all the way there in one day, but in our usual spirit of gentle slow cruising we chose to stop part way down for a night.
That would also allow us to pick up a new friend who was keen to have a day on Calliope, going through locks. She could get a bus from Saint Usage up to Breteniere to meet us the next morning.
Stu set off at the wheel and I walked the two hundred yards from the mooring to the lock at the end of Dijon basin, allowing me to get a photo of Calliope’s approach.
Leaving the lock is not as scenic; you have to pass under the dual carriageway that is rushing people into Dijon – and it is not much wider than the lock! Captain Stu saw us through.
Three locks and 4 kms further brought us to the pretty little lock at Longvic. Two lines of autumn crocuses suggest an old pathway from the door to the lock gate.
After all the hills and valleys we had been moving through the landscape seemed very different here.
Long views across wide plains pushed the skies to the furthest point – its no wonder that Dijon airport is on this flatland!
Breteniere
By 2pm we had traversed 10 locks and 10 kilometres – all in four and a half hours, including an hour lunch beak.
Now we could moor up for our last night out of the summer.
It’s always a bit of a bittersweet moment.
A last afternoon stroll down one side of the canal , across a bridge and back up the other , creating an elongated circular walk.
Then ….
…. watch the sun go down, in the company of a chilled rosé.
And later allow the moon to take over the light show, washing through the trees, down the canal, and silvering Calliope from end to end.
Good night Calliope.
In the morning the canal was centre stage again. I walked down to meet our friend from the bus stop, and then together we visited the local supermarket to choose food for lunch.
We reported back to the Captain in time for coffee and croissants before casting off and starting the final leg of the season, down to Saint Usage.
New crew quickly proved her competence, with quite a bit of boating experience already.
With her on the bow rope I was able to help the èclusier with the gates, take photos, make tea, and generally have a day off!
You have probably noticed how straight the canal is in this area.
These flat plains allowed the waterway to be cut directly from the Saône at Saint Jean to Losne through to Dijon. No need to deviate round mountains here, though we are still dropping down this ultra wide valley – an additional xxx
The map says it all.
It is so straight that even I might have been allowed to steer (joke!). It was certainly a good area to get the feel of driving Calliope. But even this unswerving line requires concentration. Changes of depth can cause a pull on the barge to one side or the other.
Such a lovely clear view on days like this when we put the front windscreen down.
Virtually all lock houses, where the éclusiers used to live, are old and traditional. So number 67 came as a bit of a surprise.
I am not sure if it a complete rebuild, or a clever wrap-round of the original house.
I rather like it, especially the colour, almost matching the sky.
Four and a half cruising hours since coffee and croissants and we reached the last lock of the day, in fact the last lock of the season.
We had a small bag of beer and wine to give our final éclusier pair, who turned out to be a pair out of work as well. Thank you for seeing us through almost to the end of our journey.
Here we are moving out of that last lock.
The red ensign looks a little drab and sad, but I think it is a shadow, not the emotion of the moment!
Now just a 20 minutes direct waterway to our terminus – our haven for the six winter months.
Saint Usage
As we came under the bridge at Saint Usage we could see our place on the quay, behind La Fenice, another Piper barge. The quay is across the road from Piper’s French HQ – a great place to be both for meeting friends and for advice if and when it is needed.
So that’s it. Another fabulous, happy, sometimes challenging, but always manageable, season. A couple of days to put Calliope to bed for the winter and we will be back to the UK until 2024. 😁
By the way, to really get to know the canal the best thing is to cruise it yourself; or for a sofa option, look at this quite detailed and readable website.
goodshipcalliope 