It has taken me a year to finish this, but at last here is the tale of us moving a Piper boat from Paris towards Berlin along Canal Saint-Denis, the Seine, the Oise, Canal Lateral à l’Aisne, Canal Des Ardennes, and the Meuse / Maas, in 2025.
With the sale of our own Piper barge Calliope looming large at the time we decided to let it be known we would be happy to move other Piper boats for owners who needed a hand. Our first request was something of an odyssey trip! Rives & Rêves had been bought by a working couple in Berlin, but currently was moored in Paris. We were asked to spend a couple of weeks taking the barge to the Netherlands where her new owners could pick her up for the remainder of the journey.
It’s rather a long blog!
Paris
18 May
Stewart and I arrived in Paris and found the marina at La Villette. We had received good advice from Laurent, the previous owner of Rives & Rêves, on where to park and were soon welcomed aboard our home for the next few weeks.
We had allowed a day to prepare for our journey and get to know the boat in a relaxed manner, which allowed us two lovely evenings on the back deck in the middle of Paris.
On the second evening we made sure we had booked the lift bridge and first lock for our start – a more interesting task than we had anticipated. Instead of the usual contacting of VNF lock keepers we discovered that Paris council, not the VNF, manage the waterways within the city – and they were not immediately easy to locate! But a passing working boatman helped us, and soon we were organised.
CANAL SAINT-DENIS
20 May
The next morning we were off! We left Bassin La Villette, Rives & Rêves marina home of the last few years, and passed under the historic lift bridge, then looked for a place to moor before the first lock and wait until the lock keeper arrived.
It was not long until he arrived and we moved gently into our first lock with R&R. Captain Stu is always careful driving into a lock, and especially so when the boat does not belong to us, and is new to his touch.
The weather was perfect – warm and sunny – as we cruised along the canal. There were 7 ‘paired’ locks and 17 bridges, (a mix of road, rail and foot bridges), between us and the Seine. A ‘paired’ lock is where two locks are placed side-by-side, usually because the waterway is very busy and boats can be kept moving.
These days there are far fewer barges on Canal Saint-Denis, so only one lock in each pair was operational.
The canal held lots of interest for us – including locks with floating bollards, historic canal ‘furniture’, and passing commercial barges.
LA SEINE
Just under three hours later we emerged onto the Seine and turned north, downstream, towards the confluence with l’Oise, just over 40kms away.
We only had one lock on the Seine, which we shared with two big gentle commercial barges; they left plenty of space for us.
There were more bridges than locks!
And increasingly interesting scenes as we got closer to the Oise.
L’OISE
We arrived at Confluence Saint-Honorine after four and a half hours on the Seine, turned off this major river and onto l’Oise. Suddenly, after a day of moving with the current, we were going upstream and progress became a bit slower.
The first half kilometre or so we were in the wide confluence part of l’Oise. Then it became a quieter river, and therefore, for us, more enjoyable.
As we approached Cergy, our planned stop for the night, we came across an amazing red bridge, stretching across land and water.
It is the Axe Majeure, a 3 km piece of urban architecture and quite amazing. The area is popular with walkers and we could see why.
We arrived at Cergy after about an hour on the Oise. We had booked into the marina and had been asked to moor on the pontoon just outside the entrance to the port, on the river. By now we were ready to stop; we had accomplished our plan to get through Paris and off the Seine in one day. Hooray.
At 45kms it was the longest day we had planned for the whole trip, although we did exceed that later. Overall we hoped to travel around 30-35kms a day so that we had time to enjoy the journey.
The mooring was quiet, pleasant and clean. I climbed the steps up into the port and found the marina office so that we could pay for our stay.
It was easy to take a walk up into the village to have a look round the marina, and the village.
It seems to be a village of two halves – the old streets and houses that originally built up around the port, and the new restaurants, bars and homes that have made it a popular suburb to the capital.
Delightful though the bars looked we decided that a quiet evening on the back deck with a cool glass of rosé would suit us better.
21 May
We left our Cergy pontoon mooring by 0900 on rather a grey morning, passing by the grand entrance to the port, now a fully functioning marina.
We had two more days on the Oise, going upstream through countryside and small riverside towns, towards the larger commune of Compiègne.
It was a scenic journey and all new waters to us. There were interesting craft and beautiful buildings, especially around Ile du Prieuré.
Our mooring for the night was at Saint-Leu-d’Esserent. We knew it was quite a short quay and therefore pleased to see it empty when we arrived six hours cruising and 3 locks, each lock contacted by VHF radio in my best French!
The mooring was ‘attached’ to a small group of fishing lakes just above. Despite the rain, that had started to fall, the lakes were lovely, fringed with irises, and kept us distanced from the road.
After a peaceful evening that included a walk up the road to a small local supermarket (never waste an opportunity to top up provisions when boating through the countryside) we were ready to head up to Compiègne.
22nd May
Today the sun reappeared and we had ideal cruising conditions. There were 4 locks to ascend – all wide, long locks able to take the commercial traffic on this part of the river.
Lock 3, Sarron, just after Pont-Saint-Maxence, has a lovely little shrine built into the wall. I guess this is Saint Maxence, but cannot be sure.
The signage and ‘decoration’ of the rivers and locks always interests me.
The PK (kilometre) markers along the river are so useful, helping to locate where you are and track progress. I like it when the locks also sign how far it is to the next lock in each direction, as here at Verbèrie on the blue sign above the anchor.
By 1500 hours we were drawing into Compiègne. We like it here. We stopped here 9 years before on our way South after crossing the channel. On that occasion we discovered the famous Guerdin chandlery – an Aladdins Cave for all boaters, from the biggest commercial barge to the smallest leisure boat.
We moored up almost opposite. The brightly coloured barge is outside the Guerdin shed. Although we didn’t need anything we walked round and wandered through – just in case!
Compiègne is an interesting town. It is one of many frequented by Joan of Arc, and is close to the place where the WW1 Armistice was signed. There are several buildings worth visiting, but on this trip we could only stay the one night.
23rd May
Moving on next day, under Compiegne bridge, we came to a big widening where L’Aisne river flows into the Oise.
L’AISNE AND LATERAL L’AISNE
Before long we turned onto the L’Aisne. Here things soon changed.
This smaller river has automated locks and at the first lock we were given a remote control to use for the next few days; o more radio contact with the lock keepers.
It was also explained that as there were no lock keepers along the river we would need to phone the itinerant lock keepers if we hit any problems; one mobile number for the locks amont (going up) and one for aval (going down).
It was a gentle day, just 6 locks, blue skies and few boats. Crew had time to start cleaning the Paris dust off Rives & Rêves’ decks, a task that I love and keeps me busy while Captain Stu is steering.
We had 3 nights on the Aisne – the first on the long quay at Soissons. This ancient town has a barging history due to its riverside position. It is an interesting town with many lovely buildings from various ages, including the wonderfully shaped indoor market, and peeping out behind it, the cathedral..
That evening a plan was hatched to take a morning off next day so that we could go to the market.
24th May
The skies had returned to grey, but the colourful produce of the market and the nearby boulangerie certainly made up for that!
Then, after an early lunch, we were off up the river again, enjoying the colours that nature was punching onto the surrounding greyness.
Before long we went through Celles double lock. Double locks are fun, especially if you are the only boat there and no-one is trying to follow you, or go the other way.
It means going into what looks like a normal lock. This fills with water and when the doors in front of you open you drive straight into the second, empty, lock. This then fills to take you to the top, and on you go.
After a gentle half day cruise, and In contrast to Soissons and Compigne, the night at Cys-le-Commune was wonderfully quiet and rural. We stopped here about 8 years ago as well, and loved the ‘out-of-the-way’ mooring.
Later we took the opportunity to enjoy a back deck beer after another good Rives & Rèves day.
Whoops – the Captain’s glass is empty! He needs a refill. 😁
25th May
Next morning we were up and raring to go. The cruising plan was to get beyond Berry-au-Bac and to the start of the Canal Des Ardennes.
We were through the Cys-le-Commune lock by 9.10; these locks do not open until 9am so no very early starts here.
6 kilometres on we reached the second lock of the day and ‘zapped’ with our trusty remote control – but no no avail. The lock was ‘en panne’, out of order. No worries; we had the mobile number for the itinerant lock keeper and surely he would be with us in a few minutes.
In fact we waited almost an hour, partly because it was hard to get a mobile signal and we kept getting cut off, but it was a lovely place to wait and we had time for a second cup of coffee (tea in my case).
Once he arrived the lock was soon fixed and we were heading on towards Berry-au-Bac.
Blue was apprearing in the sky as we continued eastwards. The countryside was beautiful, full of the various greens of Spring.
But by afternoon, all change, it was raining again; no problem to us!
Lock by lock we made way up stream, and after another half hour delay at one of them we decided to stop a bit sooner than planned.
The map book told of us of a village mooring at the edge of a small park with good solid bollards to tie up to. And that is just what we found.
Yet again, here at Variscourt, we had chanced upon a perfect rural mooring. Luckily we had stocked up well on food and had no need of anything. We could sit back, enjoy a meal, and listen to the rain on the roof.
As the evening moved towards nightfall and the skies began to clear we were treated to one of nature’s multicoloured sunsets.
Peace, tranquility, and a promise of better weather next day.
26th May
We were now a week into our journey. Today we moved seamlessly from the Canal Latèral a L’Aisne to the Canal des Ardennes, the last of our small waterways.
This part of the Latèral à L’Aisne is as scenic as the start, here shown at one in its wider areas, but up ahead it was far narrower.
CANAL DES ARDENNES
On the Ardennes the lock operation changed again. Now we turned a pole suspended over the canal in order to open the lock doors. This is always fun!
Once in the lock the operation is much the same as usual. In this one we were joined by an iridescent blue damselfly; this was to be quite an occurrence over the next few kilometres – entrancing!
We cruised on through plenty of fresh open countryside, made all the more beautiful by the sun shine. I could include so many photos of green fields, gentle hills, spring flower strewn meadows, but I fear I would bore you.
So instead, two non-natural ‘features’ of the day.
Just after the lock near Nanteuil-sur-Aisne we were pleased to see the VNF busy with a weed cutter/collector. We had come through some fairly weedy stretches that day so it was good to see clearance in operation.
And then as we came through Rethel we enjoyed the flags brusquely bannering out in the breeze – sadly without the Union Jack now that UK has left the EU.
Canal Des Ardennes is famous for its flight of 27 locks, rising 78m over about a 9km length – an exciting, challenging trip, especially going upwards as would be doing. This was to be our excitement for the following day. There is a recognised stop a few kms away from the start of the flight – Attigny – so we aimed there for the night.
It meant a nine hour cruising day after our ‘cut-short-by rain-day’ the day before. 😮💨
It is a charming place to stop, but quite small so we were glad to see a space for Rives & Rèves. Attigny has quite a history, including Charlemagne, Charles The Simple, and battles during both WW1 and WW2.
It also has two good boulangeries, a central square, bars and a small supermarket, just the place for a stop over before the morrow’s exertions! Maybe we would treat ourselves to supper out!
Or maybe not. It was a Monday and that meant most of the shops and all of the restaurants were closed. I think there was a bar serving burgers, but not what we fancied. Even the little Carrefour supermarket was closed until next morning. Lucky we had fully provisioned way back in Soissons!
27th May
We got away just before 9 next morning, after my 0800 dash to the boulangerie and supermarket for fresh bread, milk, fruit, veg etc. That was a.bit later than we had hoped, given what lay ahead, but needed to be done.
This is the map of the majority of day’s voyage. Attigny is actually 6kms West of ècluse 27 at Rilly *see map below); ècluse 28 is on that section, so add on 6kms and 1 lock to what can be seen below to give our overall day’s journey ahead.
At Rilly you are presented with a choice – left towards Pont À Bar and La Meuse, or right towards Vouzier.
We went to port, heading for Pont À Bar, La Meuse, Belgium and The Netherlands.
These locks are automated, each one opening as you leave the one before – except when they don’t! The photo centre below shows the VNF van driving off after repairing a lock for us, and the barge about to steam through the now open lock gates.
The photo on the right shows the view looking back to the previous lock, one of 6 at Neuville-Day in the space of 2.2 kms.
And the photo on the left shows part of the challenge of taking on this flight one in ascending direction. Each lock is between 3m and 3.5m deep. As we entered we needed to get our ropes (fore and aft) round bollards – or sometimes strange hooks – that were up above us.
We have done it before, even in deeper locks, but we never get smug. and are always alert for something different. Sometimes the distance between bollards (or hooks) does not fit too well with the length of the boat. Other times you simply cannot see them from the bottom of the lock because they are set way back from the edge of the lock wall!
All good fun, although it becomes a bit tiring on older arm muscles after lock 20!
Overall we had a good ‘ascension’, only needing to call lock keepers to that one problem lock, and all the time enjoying the magnificent views.
We passed the occasional boat on its way down stream – probably the better direction to fully enjoy this flight of locks!
Firstly it is easier to put your rope round a bollard when you are at the top of the lock, and secondly you are facing the big views dropping away in front of you.
Unsurprisingly we stopped at the top for a night in Le Chesne, knowing that everything was downhill from then on. We decided on a half day rest next morning, and a gentle two hour afternoon cruise to one of our favourite moorings at La Cassine.
28th May
When we set off it was very mizzley and damp, but as we cruised the clouds began to disperse.
The mooring is just below a lock (yes, we are going downhill now) and out in the countryside. There is room for two barges, or 3/4 smaller boats, but on this occasion we were alone.
The mooring takes its name from a nearly ruined chateau, La Cassine. It is possible to walk all around it and the grounds, filled with lambs at this time of year, and playing host to various festivals and events through the year.
29th May
We had one more slower day to complete the Canal Des Ardennes. Its is a canal worth taking slowly as the scenery is wide and soothing to the mind.
This last 17km, with its 5 locks, includes the Saint-Aignan tunnel – a 250m ‘sous terrains’ that saves an 8km cruise around a big hill.
It is a 250m that we have traversed 3 times before; nonetheless it is an interesting section, emerging into two locks in quick succession, and a view out across the Ardennes farmland.
Just before the end of the canal we stopped at Pont-a-Bar to take on diesel at the excellent little boatyard there,
and then the final km towards the mighty Meuse.
Emerging from the depths of the final lock onto La Meuse is a wonderful horizon broadening moment.
Rives & Rêves moved from the narrow canal gauge she had been on since Compiègne and onto the wide gauge of the Meuse.
LA MEUSE
Ahead was a 325km downstream river voyage to the place where we would hand the boat over to Andreas – 10 days of fantastic barging, through stunning scenery, picturesque towns and cities, and some interesting moorings.
The first section, in France, took us between the cities of Charleville and Mezières , past attractive Monthermé , and through the high wooded hills of Les Dames de Meuse.
Our first night was on the long pontoon at Lumes. Although unremarkable at first it became very remarkable when a muster of storks returned to their roosts in the trees across the water. None of my photos do justice to these magnificent birds and their aerial behaviour. Leave it just to say that if you are ever near Lumes in Spring, moor up and watch the show.
It was a gracious, green setting in which to spend the evening, so we broke out some aperos.
30th May
The second day on the river was one of our longest – 9½ hours. After 3 ‘broken’ locks and finding our planned stopover port full, we continued to a tranquil mooring against the wall at Fumay.
I am always at a loss for words on this part of the Meuse. It is so extraordinarily stunning with vista after vista unfolding round each bend. So I will allow a set of photos to give an idea of what we experienced that day.
In fact I will allow two sets of photos to tell the tale ….
Note the steep wooded hills, known as Les Dames de Meuse, site of one of the most famous legends of the Ardennes. Also note Stewart trying to release the stuck doors of a lock, to no avail. We still had to call the VNF to set us free.
As mentioned there had been an expectation that we would stop at the port at Revin. I had called several times to try to book, but did not receive an answer so we just arrived there in hope.
It was full!
So we continued through the short tunnel at Revin and on for almost another hour and a half (this is what made it such a long day) to the outskirts of Fumay and one of our ‘secret, if all else fails’ moorings.
It means coming in slowly, with fenders out towards the wall, and getting ropes round the sturdy fence posts up above as quickly as possible. It’s worth it for such a tranquil spot.
31st May
Two more days in France, with a third tunnel to go through at Ham, before we would reach Givet and then cross the border into Belgium.
To make up for the long day we had the day before we set our sights on Vireux-Wallerand for the night, only 16kms and 5 locks away. We set off at 0900, when the locks open, and were at our next mooring soon after 1200, in time to buy a good ready made baguette sandwich in one of the two boulangeries.
the slatey slopes of the region
Along the way we passed through Fumay, with its grand Chateau des Comptes de Bryas, and old slate mine, along more of the wonderful wooded valley, and sped on to Vireux-Wallerand with a storm cloud threatening behind us.
In the end, apart from a bit of a shower, the storm passed us by. We moored up at the downstream end of the quay, paid our dues at the Capitainerie, and sat down to our baguettes.
Vireux-Wallerand lies across the river from Vireux-Molhain. The two small towns are joined by a bridge and both offer interesting walks.
On this visit we restricted ourselves to a stroll along the bank, then up into town to the little supermarket for another re-stock. We hadn’t been near a shop for 5 days so were in need of fresh produce again.
By evening the skies were clearing to bright blue. There is a fritterie van on the quay here and we love to treat ourselves to Belgian style fish burgers and chips when in town. Vireux is very close to the Belgian border so the menu and quality are typically ‘Belgique’.
And as you can see, the warming weather brought out my love of splashing in any available water!
A pleasant few hours were whiled away in Vireux-Wallerand.
1st June
Now we were really going to leave France. We were 14kms from the river border and set off just before 0900 for the first lock at Mouyon. We waited for the éclusier (lock keeper) to finish his breakfast before he let us through, then on towards Aubrives.
Here you suddenly come upon fourteen large white-painted stone sculptures of celtic women created by Georges-Armand Favaudon.
We have passed by several times, but I never manage to get decent photos of these amazing works of art, hence why I have given a link to the man himself.
Next’ obstacle’ is Ham Tunnel and the two locks either side.
The tunnel is only 565m long; it takes less than 10 minutes to go through, and the exit can be seen before you even enter. Then when you emerge you have another lock to drop the barge down another 3m or so, and with a stunning view along to Givet.
We continued down past Givet, in a seemingly wider river. Givet has a few interesing towers and a huge hilltop citadel; worth a couple of photos.
And then, within two kilometres, we are going through the first of the huge commercial locks and across the border into Belgium where the Meuse becomes the Maas.
THE MAAS
Commercial traffic began to join us again here, and the size of the locks more than doubles to accommodate them. From now on I was back to radioing ahead to each lock to notify them of our arrival and our direction. Thank goodness it is the Wallonian part of Belgium, where French is the language. My Dutch, needed in Flanders, is very rusty!
The river valley is no less stunning in Belgium than in France.
The sides are often steep and wooded, sometimes with climbers scaling up and down the cliff faces.
The banks still show off the dwellings of both the rich and the humble.
In fact as we cruised down past Dinant we saw countless fascinating buildings. Dinant is the birthplace of Mr Saxe who invented the saxophone; their are many brightly painted giant saxophones around the city to commemorate this fact, including several on the bridge that we sailed beneath.
But we did not stop – we were on a mission to reach the city of Liège in 2 days time, where we planned to take a day off and enjoy both the mooring and the city.
There are no pleasant stops between Dinant and Namur, but we found a utilitarian one on a quay near a railway bridge at Anhée, with a Rives & Rêves size space!
Although the aspect on our side of the river was far from picturesque we looked across at yet more of the lovely cliffs, including a restaurant and a fort at the top.
2nd June
Still on our mission to get to Liège we put in another longish day, leaving our Anhée mooring soon after 8 o’clock. Stu turned the boat round to face downstream and off we went Northwards.
Less than two hours after our promising start we came to a halt at a red light at Rivière lock, just outside Profondeville. My radio connection with the lock simply said we would have to wait, so we did. We expected to see a big commercial barge coming up through the lock towards us – the usual cause of a hold-up because commercial barges quite rightly have priority.
But no barge came and eventually, after about an hour in the sunshine, we had a green light to enter the lock.
There we found a group of Wallonian Waterways vans and workers, obviously trying to clear something, and other boats waiting below the lock.
As the water began to go down we saw what had caused the problem – a log had got caught in one of the ‘pipes’ that either bring water into, or take water out of, the lock.
It had taken some ingenuity, strength and bravery by the Walloon guys to dislodge it!
At last we were on our way again, going with the flow down towards Namur.
We passed so many interesting buildings that only a small selection can be shown here, including an art deco swimming pool in the shape of a liner on someone’s front lawn!
As you come into Namur from the South, under an old arched bridge, you cannot help but notice another big hilltop citadel. We have walked up there in the past, and there is also a cable car to shorten the excursion.
The river Sambre joins the Maas here, with a beautiful curved building at the confluence, to prove, along with many other buildings, that Belgium celebrates both old and new architecture.
Namur is a great place to spend a few days, culturally, gastronomically, and for a good ambience within its old centre of little lanes, allies and shady squares.
Not for us on this trip. We were headed for Huy marina where we had booked in for the night. You will have noticed that most of our moorings have been ‘wild’ and unpaid for. But occasionally it is nice to have the security and facilities of a marina.
The cruise to Huy still had steep cliffs to one side, though these were becoming lower now. Plenty of long commercial barges were plying upstream, sending their bow waves across to gently rock us side to side.
Just before the marina we went under one of Belgium’s many fabulous modern bridges, this one called Pont Pére Pire and a striking view against the sky.
Then we were at Huy Marina. We had been told to moor up on the river side of the wall around the port. This was interesting. It is a very high wall, no doubt built for working barges.
It is also curved, and the main bollards are way above one’s head, plus a few more set lower into the wall as well.
We tied up!
Then we had to get on top of the wall to go to the marina office ….
It is 10 months since we somehow climbed onto and walked along the wall. I cannot remember how because we did not have a ladder aboard, and I cannot see a ladder in the walll – but there must be! I love these little challenges and adventures! 😁
We walked into the local town and found a good pizza place for our supper, then back for sun-downers to end the day.
3rd June
At last it was the day to reach Liège. Stu steered us on down an ever widening river, through the actual town of Huy with its famous citadel (used to house political prisoners over the centuries).
Of course Huy was not the only place to delight with fantastic buildings. They seem to be everywhere along the Meuse/Maas!
Overall this was to be an easy cruising day – less than 5 hours, a nice wide river, good weather and no dramas! So just after 1330 we were coming under Pont de Fragnée at Liège and could see our favourite mooring, totally empty, ahead.
Just above the ‘chimney’ on the boat you can see a long quay in the middle of the river. When at Liège this is where we love to stop, and we happily tied up there for the next 36 hours.
At the end of the quay are a series of modern sculptures; quite a good frame for Rives & Rêves!
The quay is attached to the southern end of an island formed by the Meuse River and the Dérivation canal. It is known as Outremeus. It leads directly into the Parc de la Boverie and its fine arts museum.
In addition to using the city as another food shopping opportunity we wanted to enjoy the overall atmosphere. That was the reason for giving ourselves a day off; on the following morning we walked along the island, through the park, and across one of the bridges taking us to the city centre.
There is art everywhere, ancient and modern. That above is a little of what can be found on the island – I am only showing a mini taster of all there is to see.
Once on the mainland we walked the streets and parks, just generally taking in the atmosphere.
And then it was lunchtime, which we took in the square in front of the cathedral.
Stu found his favourite Croque Madam, and I found some soused fish! Each to their own.
After a day’s walking around we returned to the boat to enjoy a second evening on the back deck in the middle of the river.
5th June
Liège is close to the border with the Netherlands and now we would be crossing into this third country of our journey. We were excited to be crossing this border as we had planned for 3 years to visit the Netherlands on our barge Calliope, but Covid restrictions stopped us each time. Now we would make it.
Our travelling to Maastricht began by a river tour of the old and new buildings and bridges of Liège – the one above belonging to a bank I think.
We were aiming for another mid-river quay that had been recommended to us by barging friends. But first we had to drop away from the Belgian waterways. We would remain on the Maas as it entered The Netherlands, while boats staying in Belgium curved away on the Albert Canal.
This involved the descent of quite a deep and busy lock which we shared with a good mix of boats large and small, leisure and commercial.
As so often with the big locks the descent is very gentle and as long as one has found a good place to put your ropes it is a pleasant experience. This lock has a mix of floating bollards – the easy option – and also the bollards in the wall which require the boater to move the rope gradually down, a bollard at a time.
It looks to me as if the boat in front had the easy option, whilst I was moving our rope as we went. I quite enjoy doing that – always one for a bit of action!
Then we were out of the lock and on our way. My apologies for the light in these photos; another grey day.
Half an hour later we were coming into Maastricht, trying to understand how this mooring in the middle of the river works. In fact it is a pier that runs between the two city bridges, separating a channel for through traffic from those remaining in the city.
And here we are, moored up against another quite high wall, but this time next to a ladder. The channel for through traffic is to the right of the pier wall. Foot access to the pier is at either end at the two bridges; a perfectly wonderful free mooring.
Maastricht lived up to expectations, with lots of characterful lanes, shops and restaurants – quite expensive, but free to wander and enjoy.
We had one night there, exploring the old streets close to the river. We found a great bakery and sandwich shop, a brewery, a useful underground supermarket, and plenty of lively bars along the river front.
But we did not indulge in too much fun as we needed to prepare for the next day when we would visit the bunker barge to fill up with enough fuel to get Andreas all the way to Berlin when he took the boat over.
6th June
This was our first stop next morning, the bunker barge across the river from where we had been moored. It was actually a simple manoeuvre, well executed by Captain Stu, and the friendly owner helped us to fill up with diesel.
We had about 120 kms between us and Boxmeer Marina – the handover point. That could be pleasantly accomplished in 3 days, especially going downstream on an ever growing river and with few locks.
We set off down the wide Juliana Canal. This 37km piece of mostly straight waterway engineering runs alongside the Maas and avoids the river’s many meanderings.
It runs almost exclusively through countryside and a few villages, with 2 big lock complexes, one midway at Born and one at the northern end at Maasbracht. It is a busy canal and therefore there are three lock chambers at each ‘sluis’. (Now that we are in a Dutch speaking area each lock is known as a sluis and we have left the French écluses behind).
We were amazed how many boats of all sizes were packed into the locks here, roped to each other as well as to the walls; a police boat here at Born Sluiscomplex joined in.
The coming night was to be very different to our times in the cities of Liège and Maastricht. Friends on another Piper barge had told us they were moored just after the end of the Juliana Canal in a lake at Polderveld. Would be be able to find it?
This bridge seemed to match the description they had sent us. It led us off the Maas river and into a maze of interlocking lakes.
It turned out that they were easy to find and by mid-afternoon we were tying up to an off-shore metal pontoon in Polderveld, next to their boat Sirius. They were pleased to see us – we were delivering fresh bread from Maastricht, bought that morning for them.
After 3 weeks just as a couple it was very enjoyable to share an evening with good friends.
And a totally rural mooring!
This is the kind of mooring we love – our third night not quite attached to land, and this time right out in the midst of nature. But despite earnest entreaties from friends to stay longer we had to carry on after our one night.
7th June
We had just one more stop before we reached the end of our part of R&R’s journey. This was a stop at Venlo Marina – an excellent and recommended stop.
We were now back on the Maas, although some short stretches showed signs of canalisation. The 43 km cruise only took a few hours, partly due to the strengthening downstream current and also being allowed to travel at a higher speed here.
Once again I had booked a berth at the marina at Venlo, just to be sure. Rives & Rèves is 15m long; at this length it is best to know that a berth is available as many spaces are for the more common 10-12m boats.
We were guided to a perfect mooring at the end of a pontoon. Venlo is a top class marina; lots of flowers and a good bar restaurant looking across the water.
One Captain seems to particularly like it here and has found himself a permanent seat watching the boats!
But once more, despite the delights of the port we could only stay the one night, and get ready for our last day moving R&R in the morning.
June 8th
Next day was June 8th, 20 days since we left Paris. Our final cruising day was a very windy 4 hour cruise to Boxmeer, with some black clouds and wide open spaces.
The land is flat here, the skies big, and the horizons distant. Much of the riverbank is farmland, with the occasional villages linked by many small ferries.
The wind was increasingly strong and spray began to blow up on deck – nothing even closed to dangerous of course. It was all quite invigorating.
There was one final huge lock at Sambeek which we had all to ourselves .
Then half an hour later we were turning onto the Oude Maas and into the Haven.
As we arrived it began to spot with rain. We were not sure of our mooring so tied up to an empty hammerhead while I went in search of the Capitain.
Boxmeer is a very realaxed, friendly, co-operatively run marina. I soon found the on-duty Captain, in the bar! We managed to understand each other with his reasonable English and my sadly lacking Dutch.
A space had been reserved for us right outside the clubhouse and soon Stewart was bringing Rives & Rèves on her final manoeuvre under his helmsmanship into the berth.
The boat had behaved perfectly from start to finish – lovely to drive, moor, manoeuvre, and live aboard.
With the mooring outside the clubhouse we were perfectly positioned to spend a day tidying up the boat ready for Andreas, and to toast a successful and enjoyable voyage.
9th June
We had allowed ourselves a day to rest, enjoy the clubhouse, and to clean and tidy the barge.
One more chance for a back deck beer; feeling very relaxed!
Sadly we could not hand her over face to face as Andreas could not arrive for a couple of days, but his new boat was ready, safely moored and waiting.
Then it was time to pack our bags, book a taxi to the station for next day, and prepare to bid adieu.
10th June
The day began like this , on four different trains between Boxmeer and Paris …..
Then a somewhat stressful hour extracting ourselves and our car from Paris ……
…… and finishing the day back aboard our Calliope.
What a great adventure it has been.
Thank you Rives & Rèves, and to Andreas and Andrea for having trust in us to move their boat.
goodshipcalliope 